🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their small shop securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.