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In the mirror, I can see myself in enormous shimmering pantaloons, perceptible just for my eyes. Children play in a water feature acting as mermaids, meanwhile nearby resides a chatting legume in a display case, next to a towering stack of cushions. It represents the domain of the beloved author (1805-1875), one of the 19th century’s most beloved authors. I find myself in Odense, located on Fyn in the south of the Danish kingdom, to explore the author's timeless impact in his birthplace many decades after his death, and to discover a handful of enchanted tales of my own.

The Exhibition: HC Andersens Hus

Andersen's House is the town's cultural center dedicated to the author, incorporating his first home. An expert states that in earlier iterations of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. The writer’s life was studied, but The Little Mermaid were absent. For guests who visit this place looking for narrative enchantment, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redesign of downtown Odense, rerouting a major road, made it possible to reconsider how the local celebrity could be celebrated. A prestigious architectural challenge gave the Japanese company Kengo Kuma and Associates the project, with the museum's fresh perspective at the core of the design. The distinctive timber-clad museum with connected curving spaces launched to much acclaim in 2021. “We’ve tried to create a space where we move beyond simply describing Andersen, but we talk like him: with comedy, irony and perspective,” explains the curator. The landscape design take this approach: “This is a landscape for wanderers and for colossal creatures, it's created to make you feel small,” he says, a goal realized by clever planting, playing with elevation, scale and many winding paths in a deceptively small space.

The Author's Influence

He authored two and a half autobiographies and often changed his story. HC Andersens Hus adopts this philosophy seriously; often the opinions of his friends or snippets of written messages are shown to politely doubt the his narrative of events. “The author is the guide, but he’s not reliable,” says the expert. The effect is a compelling swift exploration of his personal story and work, thinking patterns and most popular tales. It is thought-provoking and whimsical, for adults and youngsters, with a bonus basement make-believe land, the pretend town, for the youngest visitors.

Visiting the Town

Back in the physical town, the modest urban center of this Danish city is picturesque, with cobbled streets and historic timber buildings finished in vibrant hues. The Andersen legacy is all around: the street signals display the writer with his signature top hat, bronze footmarks offer a no-cost Andersen walking tour, and there’s a art walk too. Each summer this commitment culminates with the yearly Andersen celebration, which honors the author’s legacy through creativity, dance, drama and melodies.

Recently, the week-long festival had 500 shows, the majority were free. During my time in the city, I encounter artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an Andersen lookalike telling stories. I listen to empowering poetry and observe an incredible nocturnal display with athletic artists descending from the town hall and dangling from a crane. Still to come in the coming months are talks, hands-on activities and, extending the storytelling legacy beyond Andersen, the city’s regular enchantment celebration.

Every excellent magical places need a fortress, and this region boasts numerous historic homes and manor houses throughout the region

Biking Adventures

As in most of Denmark, cycles are the perfect means to travel around in this town and a “cycling highway” meanders through the urban core. From the local hotel, I pedal to the complimentary harbour-side swimming pool, then beyond the city for a route around Stige Island, a tiny landmass linked by a road to the mainland. Town dwellers picnic here in the evening, or appreciate a tranquil moment fishing, aquatic activities or swimming.

Returning to Odense, I visit Restaurant Under Lindetræet, where the food selection is inspired by author-inspired concepts and narratives. The verse Denmark, My Native Land is featured when I visit, and owner Nils Palmqvist shares excerpts, rendered in English, as he serves every dish. Such encounters frequent in my time in Odense, the fynbo appreciate narratives and it appears sharing tales is always on the menu here.

Manor House Visits

Each wonderful magical places deserve a castle, and Fyn features 123 castles and manor houses across the island. Taking day trips from town, I explore the historic fortress, Europe’s finely maintained Renaissance water castle. While much of it are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the private residence of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his spouse, the princess. I wonder if she might sense a pea through a mound of {mattresses